Archive for the ‘DIY’ Category

Printing on a Saturday

Sunday, April 18th, 2010

With the nice weather in full swing and the arrival of the weekend, I was able to start and finish my edition of prints for the Oregon Ink Spot 2010 print exchange. The print I made is based on a drawing I did for the MAFAC Exhibit I had at the beginning of the year, yet added in some background decoration and depth. I really like the way it turned out but it’s not 100% perfect. As to be expected with the first print of the year I suppose, have to brush the dust off from the long winter season.

I tried my best to document the process so without further adieu , here are some pictures:

Film Positive

Printed film positive for exposure

Exposed Frame

Exposed frame ready for printing, the yellow parts are what will be printed

Mixed inks

The 3 ink colors I mixed to match my color mockup

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Two colors down, waiting to dry for the third and final color

Printing

Final color flood stroke, almost complete!

Full production

Drying the final prints. I think a total of 20 were made, 3 were duds.

Final

Candlebeams - Edition of 15 - 2010

Finally, one of the songs from the day’s soundtrack:

Like I said, I’m very happy with how they all turned out, and how quickly I was able to print them with very little errors. If I were to do it again, I would thicken up the outline (dark blue) so that more of the fine lines would have printed better. On the screen they looked great but when printed, the ink just didn’t want to squeeze through.

Several things helped me out a ton with this print session: pressure washer, packing tape, mixing knives, and grilling. I look forward to printing a lot more this season. Also, can’t wait to see the prints I get back from this years print exchange.

I Don’t Know What It Is That They Want

Tuesday, December 29th, 2009

Over the past few days I have been putting the final touches on my artwork for the upcoming exhibit I have at MAFAC. I’ve also decided to work on the packaging for some postcard packs that I will be selling. Each pack will contain four unique postcards based on some new drawings. I went through PsPrint.com to make use of their 100% recycled paper and soy based inks. I’m very excited to see how they turn out and start assembling the packages.

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one of the many print offs for my postcard packs

Also, check out my fine art portfolio page to see images of my past exhibit at Bagels & Brew. I will work on putting up images from my other exhibit at the Whipple Art Gallery and then shortly after that the images from the new exhibit.

Where Do My Feet Lead To This Time?

Saturday, December 12th, 2009

One problem I face all too often is dropping a pen or accidentally gliding my hand across a drawing too quickly only to end up drawing a line I never intended. I get so aggrivated and usually end up drawing something else in that spot to ‘hide’ the mistake.

Unfortunately, one of these mishaps occurred with a large drawing that I had mostly finished and ready to frame. I obviously didn’t want to add anything to it since it was complete, so I set out to experiment and ‘erase’ the ink as best as I could. I knew I was taking a big risk by doing it, worst case scenario I end up making a small spot a giant blob… but I had a couple of ideas.

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Ink spots and paper scarring from the attempted removal

On thicker, more durable papers, I’ve tried sandpaper at a very high grit gently rubbing away the spot. This works but usually ends up with a little pot-hole in the page. If light hits it, it creates a slight shadow. I then thought of using an x-acto blade to do the same thing, gently sliding it back and forth over the paper to grind away the ink. The benefit to this is that it’s ultimately precise. Instead of a pad of sandpaper, the blade can remove small pinpoint areas without leaving any grinding or tearing marks.

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Holding the blade flush to the paper to buff out the marks

The trick was to hold it almost flat against the page, like you would if you wanted to cut the paper, but instead of pulling the blade, I pressed down slightly and then wiggled back and forth, rotating the paper to create a nice blended removal. It worked! Some extremely unsightly spots were instantly removed and I was pretty impressed. I thought I was just going to have to live with the mistake and hope no one would focus too much on it, but not anymore!

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Almost no visible marks from the accidental ink spots and slightly less paper scarring

The downfall of this technique is that it will most likely only work on thicker papers, and since I use copy paper most of the time, it’s not the best solution. However, it’s definitely worth some experimenting!

Get It Right the First Time, That’s the Main Thing!

Wednesday, July 22nd, 2009
Blue logo on grey shirts, printed with no problems!

Over the past couple of weeks I have gone to work on printing the logo I designed for Meier Electric, Inc. and I have printed about 45 shirts so far.

Got It Right the First Time


Fortunately, for my spirits, I printed blue ink on grey shirts first, which worked flawlessly. The inks are Union Waterbased Textile Inks from Valley Litho Supply out of Milwaukee, WI.

Got It Wrong… Many Times


I was all hyped up after printing the grey shirts so I dove right into the white ink on blue shirts. First thing I noticed is that the white ink was like that liquidy marshmallow topping stuff, and was much more difficult to work with. The blue ink was shiny and sort of like pudding, which helped it slip right through the screen.

I printed many test prints and was ready to go, but by the time I had lined up a shirt, the ink dried in the screen (even with a nice flood coat). I was freaking out so I printed a couple more hoping it was just a fluke… bad idea. I goofed up about 5 shirts total out of that batch.

White ink on blue shirts, not as easy…

I Suppose It’s Now or Never


The next batch of blue shirts (30 total) came in and I was really eager to pull it off correctly. With the few corrections I made they printed really smooth, and I was really happy with the results.

In a mixing container, I sprayed in a fairly good amount of water, and a couple of tablespoons of Speedball Retarder Base for waterbase inks. What a world of difference, made me feel much better about printing with Waterbase Inks.

That Looks Like the Party I Want to be At!

Tuesday, June 2nd, 2009
Over the past couple of weeks I have been setting up my garage studio space and the main part of that was transporting all of the gear I had on campus to the new spot. After the exposure box got moved and turned back on, it wouldn’t work. I called up my friend Mike who helped us build the box from the beginning, and he suggested checking all connections and making sure nothing was loose.

After hours of troubleshooting, we found out that the lamps needed a ground to operate. While most lamps are not directly wired with a ground, they have a metal shielding that houses them. With ours, the lights were mounted on wood with no ground or metal to allow them to function.

White paint around the inside edges, metal plate will get coated and set in the center.

To fix the problem, we slipped a piece of tin foil underneath the bulbs and then grounded it, and all lamps lit up. To make it more permanent and elegant, I found a thin tin plate to line the bottom of the box. I decided to take this opportunity to remove all of the sockets and paint the inside white along with the metal plate.

Once the plate was in and a ground was set, all lights fired right up, and faster than ever. We figured there were many conditions that would have allowed the unit to work on campus in a controlled, dry and cool environment vs. the garage.

Exposure unit re-assembled and all fired up!

I was extremely relieved when the work-around turned out to be practically free, and not having to replace a lot of components. I did a test exposure the other night and going with about 6 minutes yields a really crisp stencil.

Light safe drying cabinet for frames.

Also, I have completed the storage unit for cleaned, wet, or emulsion coated screens which will store up to 7 23×31 screens. I’m pretty happy with the way it turned out and hope that it’s as light proof as I hope it is.

More images of the studio to come soon and documentation of the upcoming grand opening party. Live for it!

They Prefer the Term "Server" Now

Thursday, May 21st, 2009
Work has begun and progress has been made on the Big Time Perfect Club House which is basically my new studio spot in the garage. It’s coming along pretty well and I’m really happy with the way the storage unit is turning out.

I realized that, during college, I had a lot of items which I took for granted: storage space, drying racks, tools, paper, etc. Now that I’ve moved all of my supplies out of the art rooms, I’ve set up shop back at home and have been trying to recreate what I’m missing.

Two-In-One: Paper drying rack and screen storage unit.

I knew for sure that I needed a storage container for unexposed silk screens and thought about making a drying rack for the prints. Half way through the drying rack project, I realized I had enough room to build a storage box underneath.

Close up of drying wires, the ends will get taped down eventually.

I ended up undoing a lot of the work I initially did, but it turned out much better than I expected. All that’s left at this point is to add in a hinged door and sealing the box off from light. I am almost finished with the construction and then it’s on to the big time.